TRAVEL:
Discovering a Legacy: Jack London's Life
Two indelible venues in Northern California have cemented the myth and story of Jack London. The most dramatic is, of course, Heinold’s First and Last Chance Saloon at Jack London Square in Oakland, California. The second is Jack London State Park in Sonoma Valley, one of the storied and legendary regions of Northern California. Back in 1959, the hamlet of Glen Ellen had yet to burst out of its rustic lifestyle to today’s boutique wine and shopping destination. Parking outside the main gate, we gathered up our picnic goodies, blanket, pillows and reading material and set off for an anticipated exciting day with the legendary Jack and Charmian London, writes our travel editor Al Auger.
(Above): Heinold's First and Last Chance a last chance saloon in Jack London Square, Oakland, Calif. [Wikimedia Commons | Calibas]
I don’t believe there is another nation in the world that has nurtured and developed such a mingling of styles and voices than are found across our borders, west, east, north or south. A never-ending pool of so many chroniclers of their vast and diverse country. I open with these four authors as representatives of one of America’s greatest gift to the world: William Faulkner’s numerous stories about the South in which he populated his imaginary Yoknapatawpha County, gave new truths to one of America‘s most misunderstood regions. James T. Farrell brought to vivid life the Irish and South Side of Chicago, where he grew up. John Steinbeck Not only recreated the then quiet world of Salinas, Carmel, Monterey, Cannery Row and Big Sur, he gave flesh and blood to its varied people and ethnicities.
But, it’s Zane Grey who is the best connected to the central theme of this narrative. Grey gave the storied American West new depths and validity. A reality that other western writers trashed in the name of celebrity and myth. And here we move on to our “person of interest,” Jack London. Not only did London spread Grey’s country as far as the geography would allow, he gave literary adventure a darkness and humanness missing in most such “popular” yarns.
London brought both the dark and light side of life in the emerging left side of the nation. Not coincidentally, London was as “Left” in his thinking of anyone at the time. But, his signature was adventure and this was never expressed better in the early 1900s. While he traveled the world, particularly in his grand yacht The Snark, his base was always the California where he grew up to the rowdy world of Alaska.
(Above): House of Happy Walls at Jack London State Historic Park, Glen Ellen, Calif. [Photo: Jack London State Historic Park]
Two indelible venues in Northern California have cemented the myth and story of Jack London. The most dramatic is, of course, Heinold’s First and Last Chance Saloon at Jack London Square in Oakland, California. Little has changed since it was first built in 1883 by Johnny Heinold. Even the name First and Last Chance has a distinct provenance. The island of Alameda, across the Estuary, was a “dry” city and commuters on the Alameda to Oakland ferry dubbed it their first and last chance for refreshments.
London was a regular at the saloon from well into his youth where he worked at his school studies. This is where London listened to the tales of those who lived the difficult and gritty life on the sea and the hard life of stevedores at the Port of Oakland that defined so much of his vast work. The Heinold landmark was a large part of one of London’s early novels, John Barleycorn. Owner Johnny Heinhold was a close friend and mentor of London beginning in the author’s youth. One of London’s most important moments also happened at the Saloon when me met the infamous ship’s captain, Alexander McLean.
Known as one of the cruelest man who sailed the sea, McLean’s ship was called by shipmates the Hell Ship. London took the stories of McLean’s ill repute and made him the protagonist, Wolf Larsen, in what some say is London’s greatest novel, The Sea Wolf. Growing up in Alameda, I spent many hours in the First and Last Chance, soaking up the heavy spirit of Jack London. Riding the ferries to San Francisco, it was impossible not to picture the gripping scene of a ferry being tossed and sunk in a violent bay of roiling waves that opened the movie version. Who better than Edward G. Robinson to play the demonic Wolf Larsen?
Even without this Jack London contact, the First and Last Chance Saloon is an unforgettable visit. Many well-known visitors brought even more fame to the historic site. President William Howard Taft was a guest of then Oakland mayor John L. Davis. Robert Louis Stevenson wiled away the hours while his ship was made ready for its finial trip to Samoa. Regulars included Joaquin Miller, Robert Service, Earle Gardner, Erskine Caldwell, Ambrose Bierce and Rex Beach. So much of the original interior where these worldly figures lingered is still the same as it was over a hundred years ago. The dark interior is lit still by the original gas lights and the stove was used for heat from 1880 until 1989.
Throughout the Saloon are numerous original items such as the tables, movie machine, music box, old bar rail, clock and many others. The first impression of visitors is the slanted floor. During the 1906 San Francisco earthquake the pilings beneath the floor settled in the mud. Attempts to restore the floor were deemed impossible and the clock behind the bar still displays the time it stopped when the quake hit.
Sitting close by is a reconstruction of Jack London’s Alaskan cabin. Many of the logs came from a dismantled cabin in Alaska that has been verified as London’s. Together, they are singular seductions in Jack London Square, one of Oakland’s most popular draws, for both tourists and locals.
“The grapes on a score of rolling hills are red with autumn flame. Across Sonoma Mountain wisps of sea fog are stealing. The afternoon sun smolders in the drowsy sky. I have everything to make me glad I am alive. I am filled with dreams and mysteries. I am all sun and air and sparkle. I am vitalized, organic.”
- Jack London
(Above): London Cottage at Jack London State Historic Park, Glen Ellen, Calif. [Photo: Wikimedia Commons]
The second most popular Jack London venue is the wonderfully maintained Jack London Historic Park at Glen Ellen, Sonoma County. From the first step into the park, you are in Jack London country. I must add, my companion Bonnie and I had a rather unique introduction to the several markers throughout the park to the rich life of this muscular writer.
Having discovered the California Park Service had created the Jack London State Historic Park at his ranch in Glen Ellen, Sonoma County in 1959, it was simply to wait for the next Saturday. This was setup day, as we cruised the local exotic markets and fill our basket with Italian salami, French bread, Fuji apples, grapes, some runny brie and - of course - Monterey Jack. To wash it down a bright Kendal-Jackson Yulupa chardonnay and a deep, red sangiovese. We were ready.
Bright and early Sunday we headed for Sonoma Valley, one of the storied and legendary regions of Northern California. Back then, the hamlet of Glen Ellen had yet to burst out of its rustic lifestyle to today’s boutique wine and shopping destination. Parking outside the main gate, we gathered up our picnic goodies, blanket, pillows and reading material and set off for an anticipated exciting day with the legendary Jack and Charmian London.
(Above): Charmian London's bed at House of Happy Walls, at Jack London State Historic Park, Glen Ellen, Calif. [Wikimedia Commons | Marina Christensen]
Our first destination was the gravesite of London and his wife, Charmian, and the remains of the Wolf House. After some time at the gravesite, where an urn with his ashes is sealed with a specially-made cement vessel, we setup our picnic at the Wolf House ruins which burned down in 1913, just weeks before the Londons had planned to move. This was going to be Jack London’s dream house and until 1955 the fire was a constant conversational and questionable subject. That year, according park historical notes, a team of forensic experts spent several days and determined the fire was caused by a pile of rags soaked in linseed oil that spontaneously ignited. As we setup our “camp” it seemed to both of us rather strange we had yet to see anyone else, even a Park Ranger.
Well, it was a grand day of blue skies and scudding clouds with a light breeze cooling the warmth from the sun. Once all was laid out for the coming mid-day feast, the next stop was the House of Happy Walls. Built in 1919-1926, this is where Charmian London lived out her life to the age of 84, dying in 1955. She directed, in her will, the house and Jack’s entire Beauty Ranch” become a celebration of her famous husband.
Today, Charmian’s home replicates London’s work space including the roll-top desk and photographs of him at work surrounded by many of the items exhibited in the room. Many of his photographs and papers are here to peruse. The huge stones from the Wolf House lends the outward appearance as somewhat forbidding and muscular that seemed to portray the author, yet inside, Charmian left a warm and welcoming home for visitors. Every room, every corner still echoes the drama they saw in the life and world around them.
What remains of the Wolf House vividly illustrates the magnificent view both the author and his wife had of where and how they wanted to spend their lives together. Charmian’s splendid House of Happy Walls gives a rebirth to that destroyed dream. She decreed as much of the local material as possible be used, such as Spanish roof tiles, maroon lava boulders, walls of field stone and redwood unpeeled logs outside coupled with paneling of redwood inside and that was so prominent in the Wolf House.
(Above): Wolf House arches at Jack London State Historic Park, Glen Ellen, Calif. [Photo: Jack London State Historic Park]
Returning to our picnic “camp,” we settled down to enjoy a sumptuous, yet simple, meal. Relaxing with a full feeling we decided to rest before exploring the trails that lead to London’s work cottage, his vineyard and celebrated luxurious “Pig Palace.”
As we were preparing to head out a Park Ranger suddenly appeared above us. We were just about to find out the park wasn’t as yet open to the public. Bonnie looked at me, I looked at Bonnie and we said, almost simultaneously “Oops.”
Fortunately, the Ranger seemingly enjoyed the uncomfortable moment and joined us in a cold soft drink and chips while he told us a brief history of little known episodes in London’s experience in building his and Charmian’s dream home. He told us of the large pool behind the Charmian’s house that was to be stocked with mountain bass. Charmian’s thinking was so far ahead of her time, she had a large fireproof vault built in the basement for London’s manuscripts and the latest modern utility system and fireproof double walls were installed and the house was built on a deep, concrete slap intended to be earthquake-proof. Much of this material is now part of the information booklets and brochures available at the park.
Feeling a bit of guilt and of having just committed a rather exciting coup of sorts, we thanked the generous Ranger vowing to come back to finish our tour when they were officially opened. That has been accomplished many times in the passing years.
GETTING THERE:
The park is in Glen Ellen, California, about 1.3 hours north of San Francisco, between Sonoma and Santa Rosa, in Sonoma County.
HOURS OF OPERATION:
Summer (May 1 to October 31): OPEN Daily.
More at: http://www.jacklondonpark.com/
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Al Auger is a freelance writer. He lives in Fairfax, Calif.
